To make the bins more functional, we used stiff interfacing (such as peltex) to give the fabric cube storage bin some extra stability. Look for this double-side, fusible, heavyweight interfacing at your fabric store. And for the exterior fabric, anything goes: neutral linen, colorful cotton, and even crinkled velvet.
How to Make a Fabric Storage Bin
Supplies Needed
Two 18-inch squares of coordinating fabricsMatching thread¼ yard of double-side fusible heavyweight interfacingScissorsSewing machineIron1 yard of ½-inch double-fold bias tapeClothespins
Step-by-Step Directions
With a few basic sewing skills and these simple how-to instructions, you can create your own collapsible fabric storage bings. You should be able to complete this DIY sewing project in about an hour.
Step 1: Cut Fabric
Before beginning, download our free printable pattern. Fold each of your two coordinating fabric square into quarters and cut the pattern from each. One of the fabrics will be for the small fabric storage bin’s exterior, and one will be the inside lining.
Step 2: Sew Pieces Together
Unfold the exterior and lining pieces; they should look like plus shapes, like the diagram above. Place the pieces right sides together. Using a ¼-inch seam allowance on your sewing machine, sew the pieces together at each corner as shown with the red lines in the diagram. If you don’t already have a sewing machine, we recommend the Brother LX3817 17-Stitch Full-size Sewing Machine ($85, Walmart) for beginners.
Step 3: Cut Interfacing
Next, add double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing ($12 per yard, Joann) to the bin to add stability. Cut one 4-¾-inch square and four 3-¼ × 4-¾-inch rectangles. Be as precise as possible for a level and even bin.
Step 4: Iron-On Base
Center the interfacing square on the exterior piece of the plus shape; press with an iron ($10, Walmart) to fuse in place. Clip into each corner, cutting just up to but not through the stitching. Turn right side out.
Step 5: Insert Side Panels
Slip an interfacing rectangle into each opening of the plus shape. Adjust interfacing rectangles so there is about 1⁄8 inch of space around interfacing sides to allow for topstitching. There should also be about ⅝ inch of fabric without any interfacing at the top of each opening; this will allow you to sew the bias tape on in Step 8 without sewing through the bulky interfacing. Press plus shape on both sides to fuse the interfacing pieces in place.
Step 6: Stitch the Seams
Topstitch around center and side interfacing pieces. Try to keep the fabric as flat as possible and stitching as straight as you can to avoid wrinkles in the fabric.
Step 7: Pin Edges
Place the exterior side down. Open folds of double-fold bias tape. Fold one side of the box up. Fold the end of the bias tape under by ½ inch and place the end of the tape in the center of a box side, aligning tape and box side edges; pin. Editor’s Tip: Packaged bias tape comes in many colors at the fabrics store (look for it by the zippers). It’s used to finish the raw edges of fabrics, such as in this fabric bin.
Step 8: Sew Bias Tape
Working around the bin and leaving a ½-inch gap of unpinned bias tape at each corner, pin bias tape to all sides. Overlap ends of tape by at least 1 inch. Sew ½ inch below the top edge of each side panel and corner.
Step 9: Flip Bias Tape In and Sew
Flip bias tape up and over the top of the basket to conceal the raw edges. Fold inside edge of the bias tape under by 1/2 inch and secure using clothespins. Working from the outside of the basket, topstitch the bound edge a scant ⅛ inch above the bottom of bias tape, catching inside of tape inseam. Have leftover fabric? Try tackling one of these easy sewing projects!
