Consider the Finish and Material
When choosing new baseboards, consider the finish. Whether it will be painted, stained, or left natural determines the material selection. Wood is the traditional choice, but it’s not your only option. If you’re planning to paint the trim, manufactured materials such as medium-density fiberboard (MDF) and plastic moldings (including urethanes and other synthetics) are good-looking, budget-conscious alternatives. To save money when staining, select wood based on the appearance of the grain, and stain it to your personal preference. Cherry, for example, is an expensive wood, but you can get a comparable look by buying birch and applying a cherry stain. The grain and hardness of cherry and birch are similar.
Fill Knots and Nail Holes
Use a dough-type wood filler for small nail holes on baseboards you plan to stain. Even filler made to accept stain never looks like real wood, so limit its use along the length of the baseboard. Filler can be applied before or after staining; experiment to find out which looks best. Begin by tamping a small amount of the filler into the hole with your thumb. Smooth it with a putty knife. Wipe away the excess with a rag dampened with water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of putty (check the label). If you plan to paint the baseboard, water-mix putty excels at filling shallow depressions. The putty sets up quickly, so don’t mix more than you can use in 10 minutes. To fill cracks around a knot, mix the putty to a pastelike consistency and force it into all the cracks with a putty knife, feathering out the patch to the surrounding wood. Once the wood filler or putty dries, sand the surface smooth.
What You Need
Sandpaper (fine and medium grits)Sanding blockTack clothPutty knifePaintbrushLint-free clothsDisposable foam brushes#0000 steel woolBaseboardWood fillerMineral spirits or paint thinnerPaintStainClear polyurethane or varnish
How to Paint Baseboards
Step 1: Sand Baseboards
Sand the baseboards, whether unfinished or painted, with medium-grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Be sure to always sand with the grain, not against it. More sanding may be required in rooms with high traffic or areas with furniture that backs up to the wall. Wipe away the residue with a tack cloth.
Step 2: Fill Imperfections
Use a putty knife to fill knots and nail holes with water-mix putty. Don’t worry about smoothing the putty down yet. Let dry. Lightly sand the filled spots until the surface is even and wipe clean.
Step 3: Paint Baseboards
Protect the floor and wall with painter’s tape before painting. Apply paint to the wood surface with short light strokes across the wood grain, laying down paint in both directions. Finish with longer strokes in one direction only, working with the wood grain. Use only the tips of the bristles to smooth out the paint.
How to Stain Baseboards
Step 1: Sand Baseboards
Staining uninstalled baseboards is easier because you can finish them on a waist-high work surface. Sand the baseboards with sanding paper or a sanding block and wipe dust particles away with a tack cloth.
Step 2: Apply Stain
Mix the stain before using. With a brush or a lint-free cloth, apply it with the grain. Slightly overlap your strokes so that you don’t miss any spots. Let the stain set according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Step 3: Wipe Stain
Before the stain begins to dry, wipe the entire surface with a lint-free cloth to remove excess stain. This forces the stain’s pigment into the grain, enhancing contrast.
Step 4: Seal and Finish
Use a disposable foam brush to apply clear sealer or varnish, and work across the grain. For the second coat, brush with the grain to avoid ridges. When it dries, install the baseboard and fill the nail holes with wood putty. For a silky smooth polyurethane finish, let the first coat of polyurethane dry thoroughly. Then lightly buff the surface with #0000 steel wool or fine (320-grit) sandpaper. Repeat this step between any additional coats you apply.
