An upflushing unit makes the job much easier. Instead of using gravity to drain, an upflushing toilet has a heavy-duty pump activated by a float and switch. When the lower portion of the tank fills, the pump turns on, forcing waste up through the 2-inch drain. A 3-inch vent is required. Make sure the vent and drain conform to local plumbing codes. Some upflushing units, especially those installed in the ’70s and ’80s, were unreliable and needed frequent repairs. Newer units are more dependable. Ask a plumbing supplier about the track record of the model you are considering. Make sure the unit’s pump is powerful enough to send wastewater the required distance to the house’s drain. An upflushing unit has a heavy-duty pump activated by a float and switch. When the lower portion of the tank fills, the pump turns on, forcing waste up through the 2-inch drain. A 3-inch vent is required. Make sure the vent and drain conform to local plumbing codes. You’ll need roughly a day to install the toilet. Get started by purchasing a unit, drawing a plan, and consulting with a plumbing inspector to make sure the plumbing will meet code. A macerating unit must be connected to a horizontal outlet toilet. Some manufacturers combine a toilet and pump. You can choose between stand-alone macerating toilets and units with connections for a tub/shower and a sink. (With either type the tub/shower must be raised to facilitate drainage.) This does not pose a problem for the sink, because its drain is usually 16 inches above the floor. The tub, however, usually must be raised so the drain line can flow down to the upflush unit. One solution is to rest the tub on a shallow platform made of 2x4s and plywood. Vent pipes must be run in the standard manner . Most manufacturers supply an extra flange for hooking up a tub/shower and sink drain to the tank. Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for cutting the access hole for the drain.
