Three-tab shingles are usually 36 inches long; each tab is 12 inches. They are designed to be installed with a 5-inch reveal. Some roofers install shingles so the cutout lines describe a slight angle as you look from the bottom to the top of the roof. However, most people prefer the cutout lines to be aligned so they make straight vertical lines. This step-by-step tutorial shows how to install 3-tab roof shingles using the racking method. A pneumatic nail gun (starting at $119, The Home Depot) makes quick work of fastening shingles. You can install shingles by hand using a roofing hatchet, but the work will go more slowly. With one or two helpers, you’ll be able to shingle a 1,500-square-foot roof in about two days. Before you begin, make sure you’re comfortable measuring, laying out a job, driving nails, and cutting with a knife. Prep the roof by installing underlayment, drip edge, and valley flashing as needed. Editor’s tip: To roof around a dormer or other obstruction, install shingles all the way up and run at least one course past the obstruction. The bottom of these courses must be nailed higher than usual so you can slip shingles under them later. Now you can snap a new bond line to align the shingles on the other side. Editor’s tip: When hips meet at a ridge, you may have to improvise to handle awkward areas. Just be sure that water will not seep in between shingles as it runs downward. Where two hips meet a ridge, cut a triangular piece to cover the joint. Cover any exposed nailheads with dabs of roofing cement. Then apply ridgecaps. If you have a hip that runs into the main roof, cover the area with WSU when you are installing the sheathing; cut the WSU so it lies flat at all points. Then cover the resulting V-shape notch with another piece of WSU. When you install the shingles, leave one shingle unnailed so you can later slip a ridgecap under it.
